by Mike Elliott, Kettle River Canoes
email: artisan@canoeshop.ca
In the early days of wood-canvas canoe construction (late 1800’s until about 1906), builders (primarily in up-state New York and Maine) tried to emulate the birch bark canoes in the region. Like birch bark canoes, they constructed their hulls with cedar ribs and planks. They also emulated the look of the gunwales. The inwales and outwales of birch bark canoes are lashed together and the rib-tops are whittled to wedges which are forced up between the inwales and outwales.
To replicate this look, the builders cut pockets in the inwales into which the rib-tops were fitted and nailed. The outwales were attached (with brass screws) directly to the inwales to create a closed gunwale. This looks beautiful. However, with regular use, water collects in the pockets and creates a moist environment perfect for the growth of the fungi that cause wood rot. Around 1906, all of the builders transitioned to an open gunwale system which allows water to drain quickly from the canoe.
To describe and document the replacement of pocketed inwales, I worked on a J. H. Rushton Indian Girl canoe (c. 1905). This particular canoe was in pretty rough shape when it arrived in my shop, but I was able to determine the original dimensions of the component parts from salvaged pieces.
Replacing the original inwales is complicated by the fact that the canoe is already built. In 1905, the builder started constructing the canoe by making the inwales first (complete with pockets already cut). He then placed them in the building mould and fit the rib tops into the pockets. The process of replacing the inwales is the exact opposite. The inwales must be fitted to the canoe. Then the position of each pocket is marked and cut before the inwale is installed.
Rushton trimmed his Indian Girl canoes with cherry. The first step is to cut new cherry stock 1″ (25mm) wide and 7/8″ (22mm) high. Then, run the stock through the table saw with the blade angled 8° and 5/8″ (16mm) high to create a rabbet on the outside face ¼” (7mm) from the top surface and 3/16″ (5mm) deep at the top.
Arrange two 10′ (3 meters) pieces for each inwale and mark the location and orientation of a scarf joint on the four pieces of inwale stock. Soak about 7′ (2 meters) of each piece at the non-scarf joint end for three days. Meanwhile, build a bending form for the ends of the inwale stock.
Heat the ends of the inwale stock with boiling water and bend them onto the form. The bend is not severe, so a backing strip is not required. Allow the wood to dry for about a week before removing them from the form.
Cut a scarf joint angle into the end of one of the pieces (I arbitrarily chose the bow piece) to be used for each inwale. Fit the bow and stern pieces of inwale stock for one side of the canoe into the canoe and match the curve at the ends to the rib-tops in the canoe. Clamp them in place with lots of spring clamps.
Overlap the bow and stern pieces and mark the position of the scarf joint on the stern piece for the inwale.
Cut the scarf joint angle in the stern piece, use polyurethane glue to splice the bow and stern pieces into a full-length inwale and allow it to cure overnight. Perform this sequence on the other side of the canoe to create two inwales.
Once the glue has cured, sand the joint smooth. Then, clamp one of the full-length inwales into the canoe. Use a pencil to mark the position of every rib-top in that inwale. Remove it and do the same thing for the other side. Be sure to label each inwale so you know to which side it belongs.
Set up a drill press as illustrated and prepare in-feed and out-feed supports for the inwale.
Cut the pockets on both inwales. You will need help from a second person to guide the inwale through the curves at the ends.
Install one inwale and secure it with clamps at every second rib top. Pre-drill two ¾” bronze ring-nails in each rib-top.
Use a clinching iron as backing while you drive in the nails. Once the first inwale is fully installed, repeat this process for the second inwale.
Meanwhile, make new cherry decks for each end.
Soak the wood for three days, steam the wood for 60 minutes, bent the decks in a press and allow the wood to dry in the press for a week.
Use a flexible straight edge and a permanent ink pen to mark the inwale tapers at both ends of each inwale.
Use a saber saw to cut the tapers into each inwale-end.
Smooth the tapers with a random orbital sander and 80-grit sandpaper.
Hold the new stem top (either a new piece spliced into the original stem or, in this case, a completely new stem) against the inwale ends and mark where the stem top meets the underside of the new inwale ends.
Use a Japanese cross-cut saw to cut the stem-top. It is best to cut it a little long initially and sand it gradually (while checking frequently with dry fitting) until the stem top fits snugly under the inwale ends. The process of replacing the stems in a 1905 J.H. Rushton Indian Girl will be described in a separate blog (to be posted soon).
Use a ratchet strap to pull the end of the canoe together. Then, dry fit the deck. Line up a straight edge with the centerline of the canoe directly above the stem end at each inwale end. Then, mark the angle for the inwale joint.
Release the ratchet strap and cut the inwale joint on each inwale end.
Sand the joint faces smooth with a random orbital sander.
Re-attach the ratchet strap and pull the end of the canoe together again. This time, draw the inwales together until the deck fits properly. Check the inwale joint and make any adjustments to the angle until it fits exactly.
Install the deck and attach it to the inwales with 1½” #8 bronze flat-head wood screws (countersunk).
Use a random orbital sander set up with 60-grit sandpaper to sand the deck and inwales until they are perfectly flush.
All of this (and much more) is described in my book – This Fancy Old Canoe: A Comprehensive Guide to Restoring Antique Canoes.
If you live in Canada, CLICK HERE to buy the book.
If you live in the USA, CLICK HERE to buy the book.
If you live in the UK, CLICK HERE to buy the book.
Si vous habitez en France, CLIQUEZ ICI acheter le livre.